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Pip's Tips

Spring 2011

And don’t forget there is plenty more information on this website regarding getting started,  resources, recipes and inspiration in your garden. 

Spring is an exciting time on the garden because (for those of s in a cool temperate climate at least) it’s the best time of year to get your fruiting annuals growing which you cannot grow in the cooler months. These plants fruit in summer and early autumn are not frost tolerant and their seeds will not germinate if the soil is below a certain temperature. They are also heavy feeders, so need the soil to be prepared with lots of yummy compost and well-rotted manure. For some of these crops it is best to sow them in trays and raise them up in the warmth of either a cold frame or your windowsill until the threat of frost has past and you can safely transplant them into the garden. Things to plant in spring include; tomatoes, pumpkin, zucchini, eggplant, capsicum, chilli, cucumber, sweet corn, carrot, beetroot, parsnip, silverbeet, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, broccoli, lettuce, onion, kale, kohlrabi, summer spinach, leeks, swede, radish, turnip, peas, Asian brassicas (e.g bok choy) and beans.

Click on the links to view and purchase Pip's SPRING VEGGIE KIT, HOT HERB or HOT BUD  kit all ready for planting during Spring.

Also available to plant now are our NEW SPROUTING SEEDS.

In your spring seed kit you’ll find the following varieties. Please click here, if you would like more information on how to start growing from seed.

CHILLI

Chilies originated from the Americas and their domestication dates back over 6000 years. Soon after Christopher Columbus encountered them there, Chilies spread across the globe and have been incorporated generously into many culinary and medicinal systems from Spain to Asia and Africa. They are a warm season, frost tender annual. In temperate areas they can be sown in early spring (inside, in a hot house or cold frame in seed trays to avoid frosts). In subtropical areas they can be sown in spring and in tropical areas they can be sown all year except January and February. Seed germination takes 1-2 weeks and is best when the soil temperature is above 18 degrees. Transplant seedlings into garden when frosts have finished and fertilise well. Space plants 45 cm apart and plant in the full sun. Continue to feed regularly with compost or organic liquid fertilisers like Seasol. The Scoville scale is a measure of the 'hotness' of a chili pepper or anything made from chili peppers, i.e. Tabasco sauce (2,500 - 5,000 Scoville). The scale is named after Wilbur Scoville who developed the test in 1912.
Hunagarian Hot Wax: is a hardy, highly productive banana shaped chili with smooth, waxy fruits ending in a point. The fleshy fruit, 12 cm x 3.8 cm, turn from yellow, to orange, to red when ripe. It is a hot chili much like a Jalapeno or Paprika. Its Scoville heat scale is 2500 - 8000 units. It will be about 58 days to first harvest of pale yellow fruit and  83 days for red.

TOMATO (Lycopersicon esculentum)

High in vitamin C and a good companion plant to parsley and basil. They can suppress couch grass and like to grow in open sunny positions with well drained, rich soil. They are sensitive to frosts and don’t like water logging but be can grown anytime in warm, frost free areas. In areas that get frost they are best grown in spring and summer. They need warm soil to germinate so similar to Chilies its best to sow them first in seed trays indoors and transplant after about five weeks.
San Marzano: is a vigorous, reliable variety with clusters of deep red, pear-shaped fruit. It is very tasty eaten fresh and ideal for bottling, cooking, pastes and drying, as it has few seeds. It is a bushy type but wont mind if you give them a stake to lean on. First harvest will be after 60 – 80 days.

PUMPKIN (Cucurbita moschata)

Pumpkins are a summer vine which originally come from the North America and dates back to 7000BC. They are a part of the Cucurbit family which also includes zucchini and squash. They can easily cross with members of the same species. The fruit are harvested late summer- autumn and can be stored throughout winter as long as the skin isn’t damaged and it still has a stem attached (at least 5cm long) as this prevents disease and mould getting into the fruit.  The flowers can be eaten also and are delicious stuffed with rice or cous cous and baked. To save seed simply wash and dry them when you are cutting the pumpkin up to eat. Pumpkins are frost tender so harvest when the vine dies off and pumpkin stems dry out but before the first frost. Pumpkins like rich soil and need lots of space to spread out. They can be grown up a trellis or fence also. Sow seeds 2.5 cm deep, directly into a mound of compost, 1 metre apart. Pinching out the ends of the runners will encourage branching and increase the harvest.
Violina: is a rare Italian heirloom butternut-type pumpkin, named for its violin shape. It has a wrinkled tan skin and deep orange, sweet flesh. Fruit can grow to between 9 to 16 kg and is good for desserts, roasting, stuffing and baking. It will be about 100-110 days to first harvest.

ZUCCHINI (Cucurbito pepo):

As with pumpkin, zucchini can be sown directly in the garden, after frosts have passed. It needs warm soil to germinate and rich well drained soil with lots of nitrogen. They don’t do well in times of high humidity as they can suffer from powdery mildew. Sow 3-6 seeds directly into rich compost and keep the 2 or three strongest once they are big enough to judge. Pick when about 15 cm long, the flowers are also edible. Two plants will grow sufficient fruit for 4-6 people.
Black Beauty: produces dark-green, glossy, smooth fruit with creamy, white flesh and a good flavour. It is fast growing with a prolific yield. The fruit can be frozen and it has a busy growth habit. This is an open-pollinated variety introduced in 1957. It will be 44-64 days to first harvest.

CLIMBING BEAN (Phaseolus vulgaris)

All beans are warm season crops (except for Broad Beans) and come in bush or climbing varieties. They don’t tolerate frosts and germinate best when the soil is 18 - 25°C. In temperate areas beans can be sown sow beans from spring to early summer and in frost free sub tropical areas they can be sown any time. In temperate areas its best to sow them in seed trays inside to transplant later (if going for an early planting) or directly in the garden after frosts have passed.
Germination will take 4-10 days and climbing beans will need some kind of trellis to climb up as they grow. Water seeds well once after sowing and then do not water again until shoots appear above ground.Pick beans in the morning for best flavour.
Blue Lake: is a stringless, round, tender, dark green bean 15 cm long which is great for eating. Can be eaten raw, cooked ad frozen for long term storage. It produces a big crop over a long period and will cope with hot summers.

BASIL (Ocimum basilicum)

Basil is the herb of romance and is excellent for seasoning, pesto and for making basil vinegar. It can be used to aid digestion, as a weak sedative and to stimulate milk flow. The smell of basil is traditionally believed to strengthen the heart and increase intelligence. Bees love it but aphids,

white fly, fruit fly and housefly don’t like it. Add it at the end of cooking to enhance flavour. It grows (and tastes) especially good with tomatoes. Plant in seed trays to transplant later into a warm, sunny position. It is an annual warm season plant that does well in a range of climates but will not tolerate frost. Sow from spring to mid-summer in seed trays to transplant after frosts have passed.
Sweet Genovese: is an Italian large leaf variety with a strong smell. It grows to 90cm and is popularly used in cooking.

HOT BUDS

Enjoy a garden brimming with beautiful flowers for the warmer months…

The Hot Buds seed kit is full of beautiful (and edible and useful) flowers to liven up your garden through the warmer months. Read below about  each of the flowers and how they are going to help you and your garden to blossom. Don’t forget that you can save the seeds that all of these flowers produce and plant them again next year. For more info on seed saving or growing from seed click here.

Sunflower (Sunbird)

Enjoy wafting aromas and delicious herbs for the warmer months…
The Hot Herbs seed kit is full of aromatic, tasty and useful herbs for your garden during spring and summer. Read on for some information about each of the herbs and how they are going to help spice up your garden and culinary adventures during the warmer months. Don’t forget that you can save the seeds that all of these herbs produce and plant them again next year. This way a you can enjoy their tasty goodness year after year.

Basil- Lime (Ocimum basilicum)

Basil is an annual warm season plant that will grow in a range of climates. As it is frost sensitive it can be planted early in spring through to summer in seed trays to transplant into the garden after all threat of frost has passed.Basil likes a moderately rich, well-drained soil. If flower heads begin to grow, prune these off to encourage the plant to bush out. Lime basil has a zesty lime scent and grows as a compact bushy plan. Plant in seed trays to transplant later into a warm, sunny position.
Uses: Basil is the herb of romance and traditionally a maiden would place the herb outside her window when she is ready to meet her lover.  It is excellent for seasoning and for making basil vinegar or pesto. It can be used to aid digestion, as a weak sedative and to stimulate milk flow. The smell of basil is traditionally believed to strengthen the heart and increase intelligence. Soaked in water and sprinkled on the head it is said to promote good sleep. Bees love it but aphids, white fly, fruit fly, mosquito and house fly don’t like it. Add it at the end of cooking to enhance flavour. It grows especially well with tomatoes. and enhances their flavour. Basil should always be added at the end of cooking to make the most if its pungent flavour.

Dill (Anethum graveolens)

Dill is an annual plant which can be grown from spring to autumn. It is suitable for temperate and subtropical areas. And will grow to 90cm.  the leaves are feathery like fennel and blueish green in colour with yellow flowers.  Can be sown direct in the garden or ins eed trays for transplanting later.
Uses: the, leaves and seeds are used in cooking; the flowers attract a wide range of beneficial insects to the garden.

Broad-leaf Echinacea (Echinacea purpurea)

 
It is also called Broad Leaf Echinacea, it is a perennial to 50 cm with large purple cone flowers in summer. Best sown in spring and summer, Echinacea grows in full sun or partial shade, in fertile soil with good drainage. It aids germination if you store the seeds at 5 degrees C for 7 days before sowing (the fridge is a good spot for this). Once established it can be propagated by dividing up the roots but best results are had by sowing from seed.
Uses: Echinacea is used as a potent stimulant for the immune system. The potency of the plants medicinal properties can be checked by chewing on a leaf for a moment and the more intense the tingling on your tongue the more potent the plant.  The whole plant can be used including roots, seeds, flower and leaves. It helps eliminate infectious diseases by increasing white blood cells. It can be made into teas or tinctures.

Chives-onion (Allium schoenoprasum)

Chives are a compact clump forming perennial with attractive mauve flowers and small onion-like leaves. It can be grown in pots and in the garden. Sow chives between spring and autumn, in seed trays to transplant once 3-5cm tall. To harvest, simply cut chives close to the soil and they will re-grow.
Uses: Chives add a tasty onion flavour to fresh in salads, omelet’s and potato dishes. Hung in homes they are said to prevent evil (in medieval times evil could be in the form of a virus or plague). They can be used to treat colds, flu and viruses and a tea of chives and ginger can also be used to relieve headaches caused by colds. It is rarely attacked by pests or diseases and will actually repel some pests so it is good to grow near tomatoes and parsley. Chive flowers also make a great addition to flower arrangements.

Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis)

It is a perennial plant growing to 80 cm tall with lemon scented leaves. It is a non-running member of the mint family. Sow in spring and summer, first in seed trays for later transplanting. It likes a cool semi-shaded position in the garden.
Uses: Makes a zesty addition to salads, cooking and herbal teas. It is the herb of sympathy also known to the Greeks as the bee plant but butterflies also love it. Crush the leaves and rub on your skin as a natural insect repellent. Steeping leaves in hot water makes a tea which is a mild relaxant, reduces stress, stimulates mental activity and treats indigestion and headaches.

A good method for these warmth lovin’ crops is using something called a ‘cold frame’ or raising them in seed trays inside on a sunny windowsill somewhere you won’t forget to water them! A cold frame is basically a mini hot house to keep the soil and air warm and moist and encourage seed germination. Its can be made out of all sorts of things like an old glass window on top of a frame of bricks, an old glass shower door lent against a north facing brick wall with something to fill in the gaps at the side or a big plastic storage box with a few small holes in the lid. Any kind of arrangement that lets in sunlight and traps the heat with no gaps to let the warmth out. Facing the cold frame north so the most sunlight possible gets in is a good tactic, but its essential to remember to water seeds in cold frames as they can easily dry out with all the extra warmth. For more info on building a cold frame check out the blog on our website.

If you don’t have the space or the materials to make a coldframe, windowsills are another good spot to raise your spring seeds. Seed trays and punnets can often be picked up second hand from nurseries or tip shops and filled with a seed raising mix (see ‘preparation’ section in pips tips on the website) plant seeds roughly one fingers width apart and one or two seeds in each hole. The depth of the hole depends on the seed but the general rule of thumb is for it to be two-three times the depth of the size of the seed. So beans go much deeper than lettuce seeds for example. If you’re raising your seeds inside you may need an old baking tray or plate under the punnets to catch excess water from spilling onto your kitchen bench.

Seeds need to stay moist to germinate, so its really important that they are watered lightly everyday. As the seeds grow they may be too close together, so its important to thin them out so that each seedling has some space to send its roots out and find food. Do this simply by gently pulling out the smaller, weaker shoots that are too close to the stronger ones. These shoots can be gently replanted or you can eat them as they are really tasty and nutritious.

Once your seeds have grown to about 5cm tall, its time to transplant them into your well prepared garden. The first thing in this process is to do what called ‘hardening off’ your seedlings, that is toughening them up after being mollycoddled in the cold frame. To do this simply take them out of the cold frame or house and put them in the garden where you will plant them and leave them a few days to adjust to the different conditions. Then its time to actually transplant them. Using an old kitchen fork, gently pries them out of the seed trays being careful not to damage or tear the roots. If seedlings are ‘root bound’ (have grown too big for the tray and roots are heavily enmeshed) you can soak the tray in water to loosen the soil around the roots.

Next dig a hole for the plant that is big enough for the roots to spread and deep enough to bury the roots but not the stalk of the plant. You may like to feed your seedling by adding a handful of good compost to the hole before putting the seedling in it to ensure food for the plant at its roots. Put one seedling in each hole, fill the hole in with soil/compost and gently push all around it to fill in any air holes. Give the transplanted seedlings a light watering and remember to water them every day or so for the first week while they reestablish themselves in their new home. If the threat of frost has not entirely passed you may also like to cut the bottom out of a plastic drinking bottle, take the lid off it and put it over the plant as a mini hothouse/frost protection. It can get quite hot in these mini hothouses so don’t forget to water them regularly.

Bare ground (not shaded by plants) in the garden is area where water/moisture will be lost through evaporation in summer. When working out where to plant your seedlings it’s a good idea to think about this and space your seedlings apart so that when they grow up they will be in close enough proximity to the other plants around them so as to shade the majority of the ground yet not have their growth hindered. This creates a ‘micro climate’ where moisture and humidity will cycle through your veggie patch and not be lost to the elements. It’s also a good idea to plant more seeds in trays 2-4 weeks after the first lot, so that you can replace plants which have died and have a succession of plants for harvesting rather than a sudden glut.

The no dig garden was a brain child of an Australian woman called Esther Dean. They are quick and simple and can be built using scrap materials on almost any surface including concrete!!

3 basic Ingredients:
Brown (5 parts): Pea straw or Lucerne
Green (3 parts): Any kind of green waste (food scraps, grass clippings, a box of veggie scraps from your local green grocer)
Black (1 part): Poo (whoever’s you can get a hold of worm, chook, cow, donkey, elephant, kangaroo)
Plus:
Cardboard or newspaper
Water
Seedlings
Some well rotted compost or good soil

Method:

• Start with a good site that gets lots of sun. You may need to create some sort of garden boarder to contain the no dig garden as it will end up being at least 30cm tall.
• If it’s on a hard surface lay down about 5cm depth of gravel or stone to assist with drainage.

• Put down a thick layer of newspaper or cardboard (2cm thick) and begin to layer brown, green, black materials, spraying with water after each layer and repeating until the garden is about 60cm high (remember as the materials settle it will sink down significantly). Its great if you can add the occasional handful of worm castings into the layers as this will hatch worms who will help to speed up the composting of the layers turning it into yummy rich soil.
• Finish with a layer of brown materials. You can plant straight into this by clearing a hole in the brown layer, filling it with compost or good soil and planting your seedlings into these holes. By the time the seedlings roots grow down, the material underneath will be rotted enough for them to sink their roots into it.

For more information on how to get started with planting and growing in spring click here.

RECIPES

Don’t forget to visit our recipe page for some more delightful and delicious ideas of what to cook with your spring harvest. Here’s one to tantalize your taste buds.

Baked Zucchini Flowers

4 baby zucchinis
2 finely cloves of garlic
1½ cups of cooked rice (brown or white)
16 zucchini flowers (females or males are suitable)
1 bunch of chopped flat leaf parsley
100g feta cheese- cut into 1½ cm cubes
olive oil salt & pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 190° C- Sauté the baby zucchinis with garlic until just soft and season with salt and pepper. Now combine cooked zucchinis with chopped parsley, feta and cooked rice. Take a zucchini flower, open it carefully and stuff it approximately 2/3 full with mixture, twisting the ends to close. Place stuffed zucchini flowers on a lightly oiled oven-proof dish and bake for about 15 minutes.

SPRING SEEDS OF INSPIRATION

Happiness is a butterfly,
which, when pursued,
is always just beyond your grasp,
but which, if you will sit down quietly,
may alight upon you.

- Nathaniel Hawthorne –